Steak of the Art is a restaurant among the Lego flats of the Harbourside whose name might have come first before the business model and difficult location were given careful consideration.

So there is steak, sourced from a farm in Devon. And there is art, although the promised gallery is not yet open. Instead, there are a few ‘arty’ touches, like these two paint pots decorating one of the booths:

As if to ram home the point that this restaurant is about art as much as food, each seat is upholstered with picture frames like a particularly garish shirt worn by Adam Hart-Davis.

A wood carving looms large over another booth, while in a room off the main dining area, the art is far from original, its vintage-feel French posters being the kind of things seen in thoughtful students’ bedrooms.

The aim is to provide food and art “under one visually visionary roof”, so thank goodness that the food is actually quite good – and so it should be if charging up to £20 for a steak and chips, with sauces and vegetables costing extra.

Head chef is Francesco Scafuri, formally at Piccolino’s in Quakers Friars, whose CV informs has had work experience at two of the best restaurants in the world, The Fat Duck and El Bulli.

Alongside the steaks, there is a daily-changing fish selection, a £9.95 lunch menu featuring burgers and lasagne served with a drink, and a £10.95 Sunday roast.

The drinks menu has little dots signifying what to match with your food (Bristol Beer Factory’s Southville Hop is said to go well with rump, rib-eye and lamb), with all the wine available by the glass or bottle.

If you want great steak in Bristol, go to a restaurant like The Cowshed. If you want great art, go to a gallery like the RWA. There is really no point combining the two.

Steak of the Art, Cathedral Walk, Bristol, BS1 5LN. 0752 534 2381.

www.steakoftheart.co.uk