The uninitiated still need a map to guide themselves around the myriad of rooms and staircases that make up Goldbrick House.
There is even now a new room, the Orangery (below), a light and airy room flooded with natural light and offering panoramic views across Bristol from what used to be the terrace.
Another new addition to Goldbrick House is head chef Christian Wragg, who joined last month from the Royal Oak in Leigherton near Tetbury in Gloucestershire, and before that worked at Bristol’s former City Inn and Bon Viveur restaurants.
A telling insight into Wragg’s personality comes from his answer to the seemingly innocuous question, ‘Tell us about your style of cooking’, on the Goldbrick House website.
“Asking a chef what his favourite ingredients or style of cooking is like asking an artist what his favourite colour is, it’s almost impossible to answer,” he says.
“I can tell you I love the satisfaction I get from making an amazing loaf of bread, or the bliss of eating a fresh ripe Great British strawberry, or the heart-warming feeling of tucking into a homemade steak and ale pie, and the excitement of smoked salmon and scrambled eggs with champagne on Christmas morning.
“I enjoy all these sensations and if I can make others feel the same way using the medium of cooking then my job is done.”
Dinner at Goldbrick House is certainly a special occasion. On Friday evening, Joanna and I were fussed over by three different waiters over three a la carte courses.
I started with the partridge breast and white pudding sausage (£6.75) – an unusual and delicious pairing of flavours – served with puy lentils, dates, roasted garlic and a watercress vinaigrette.
For the price of £21.95, my chargrilled 8oz sirloin steak au poivre with triple cooked chips, “Tewkesbury relish” and roasted flat mushrooms had better be good. And it most certainly was, cooked perfectly.
Wragg’s background as a pastry chef shone through on the decadent pudding, a mint and white chocolate truffle with dark chocolate biscuit chunks and blackberry compote (£6.75).
Goldbrick House are currently promoting their Christmas parties. If you work in an office, take whoever is responsible for booking staff outings by the hand, grab the company credit card and march them up to 69 Park Street.
Goldbrick House, 69 Park Street, Bristol, BS1 5PB. 0117 945 1950.
