The directions to the St Werburgh’s Sunday Roast Club were clear enough. Go through the tunnel, past the “Magic House”, through another tunnel, first on the left. Simple. Until I opened a door not into a dining room, but into what looked like somebody’s bedroom.

Rather foolishly, I had discounted the entrance to the kitchen, but through here, squeezing past two chatty chefs putting the finishing touches to the food, were the tables and chairs in a space that with its creeping foliage covering every inch of ceiling resembled a greenhouse more than a dining room.

This is Bocoso, standing for Bring Your Own, Cook Your Own, Smoke Your Own, found on a plot of land at the end of Boling Wells Lane opposite the St Werburgh’s City Farm orchards.

It is a place as curious as it is unique, with the conservatory restaurant – the nearest equivalent of which is The Ethicurean in Wrington  - alongside a kitchen, bar and even a small dance floor and stage, all owned by Pete, who sells wood burning stove heaters.

The St Werburgh’s Sunday Roast Club has made its home here in this most secluded of surrounds for the last few weeks. Run by chefs Colin Jones and George Thomson, it has immediately become my answer to that oft-asked question, where is the best Sunday lunch in Bristol?

There is not a sous vide in sight. Nor is there foam or any sort of fancy pants touches. This is just a proper old-fashioned traditional Sunday lunch done very well. Very well indeed.

My roast leg of pork with fresh herb stuffing had come from a pig reared on the City Farm. Accompanied by Yorkshire puddings, roast potatoes, roast parsnips, carrots, mashed swede and gravy, it was one of those roasts which it was a shame to finish.

Roast beef and nut roast were the other main course options on Sunday, and I most certainly would have sampled the Moroccan orange and almond cake had my daughter not spotted all the fun happening across the road as Apple Day was being celebrated.

Our drinks came from Pete who was manning the bar next door (below), housing all sorts of curious oddities. He poured us two pints of Thatcher’s cider from the barrel, served with a dash of lemonade and a slice of lemon.

Roast lunch is £11 and children can be served half or three-quarter portions, with a different pudding each week for £3.50, and drinks not costing too much. I can’t remember exactly, as this isn’t the sort of place you get a card receipt. Pete has only had electricity here for a couple of years.

The directions that I followed to Bocoso were from Mina Road. Another set of directions from Muller Road takes you on a five-minute stroll along an overgrown path and then past some horses, sheep and geese.

Whatever directions you choose, when you find the St Werburgh’s Sunday Roast Club, it will be a journey worth every single wrong turning.

St Werburgh’s Sunday Roast Club, 5 Boiling Wells Lane, St Werburgh’s, Bristol, BS2 9XY

Telephone: 07934 394 011
Email: sundayroastclub@gmail.com
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