Manna

You wait years for a decent tapas bar to open in north west Bristol, and then two open within weeks of each other. First, Bravas on Cotham Hill, from a couple who had previously run a supper club from their home. And then, Manna, on North View in Westbury Park, from the people who run Italian restaurant Prego just over the road.

For an affluent area, Westbury Park is remarkably underserved for places to eat and drink. The Westbury Park Tavern is a chain pub that serves microwave-cooked gammon and ubiquitous lagers, and although cafes Attic and The Bird Table have recently raised the standard, with the latter now serving food in the evenings, the area is still bare compared to the offering in similar parts of Bristol.

So when the Chinese restaurant on North View closed after more than 20 years, Prego owner Olly Gallery and his brother-in-law Julian Faiello acted quickly to snap it up.

They hope that Manna will be able to operate a complimentary service to Prego, the idea that rather than taking business away from the restaurant it can become a place for a pre-dinner drink before walking over the road.

I think, however, that with its tapas, or “small plates”, selection from chef Sam Sohn-Rethel, formally at Bristol favourites The Lido and Flinty Red, and a large drinks list, it will more likely become a destination in itself.

When I visited on Thursday evening with a friend and last-minute additions of his wife and in-laws, our table was groaning under all the food.

Only open for a few days, it was already looking busy and feeling buzzy, smartly fitted out with exposed wood and metal chairs bearing all the hallmarks of Simple Simon Design, responsible for Prego as well as many other Bristol bars, pubs and restaurants including Beerd, Graze and Tart.

Following a rudimentary error of biting into one of the guindilla peppers (£3.50), a mistake I won’t be repeating in a hurry, followed by another rooky error of swallowing peas in their pods (£7, accompanied by parmesan cheese) whole, I tucked into the splendid charcuterie selection (£12) of chorizo, salami and more.

The food came out as it was ready. Some of my own favourite selections were asparagus with tiny but delicious potted prawns (£7.50), and pissaladiere (£5), an oniony pizza-like tart which I had previously never encountered and was helpfully explained and recommended by our waitress.

Then came two of the best dishes, charcoal-grilled squid, its tentacles escaping from the plate, served with a fresh and summery chopped salad (£7); and an outrageously good veal cheek slow-cooked in Pedro Ximenez sherry with morcilla and crisp sage (£10), worth the entrance price and a trip to Westbury Park all by itself.

Manna, 2B North View, Westbury Park, Bristol, 
Telephone: 0117 970 6276
Website:  www.mannabar.co.uk
Twitter: @mannabar

4 Responses so far.

  1. John says:

    Whilst the food was indeed good, was I wrong in thinking it was very expensive, and £4 plus for 125ml of red wine (recommended by the waitress)?

  2. Marisa Walsh says:

    We had a table booked for 20:15 for a romantic evening. However on arrival it was very crowded and very noisy and people stood out side being again very loud..
    So we did not even enter…..

  3. Monday nights – 4 tapas dishes for £10 and reduced prices for house wine and beer. If it took the bristol pound it’d be the perfect local. Now we need a good local pub….

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