There’s a small but perfectly formed selection of bar snacks at Beerd on St Michael’s Hill. Choose from Bar Sausage, Bar Skin or Bar Dough. I hope that last sobriquet was intentionally included as a nod to the famous French model, actress and now animal rights activist. If not, it’s a wonderful coincidence.

As well as the bar snacks, there are also plenty of pizza choices in Bristol’s newest pub, situated in a double-fronted former guitar shop.

These are pizzas of the rustic kind, those that are in no way circular. On my numerous visits since this new pub opened last month, I have sampled the salami and red chilli (£9); and prosciutto, artichoke, olive and mushroom (£9.50). For research purposes, I have also enjoyed a deliciously gooey doorstop of a chocolate brownie.

But it’s not about the food here, no no no. This place is all about the beer. It’s a beer drinkers paradise, with kegs, barrels and bottles. A selection of global beers that will always include a roster of Bath Ales ales, for this new pub is their creation, as well as some more esoteric choices.

£9 a pint?! That will be the 8.3% Raging Bitch from the Flying Dog brewery in Maryland, founded by a friend of Hunter S Thompson. A Christmas beer from San Francisco’s historic Anchor Brewery proved particularly popular in Beerd’s first fortnight of opening, and had run out by Christmas Day.

Among the keg selection at the moment – kept in what looks like a section of a giant wooden barrel, just one of the many brilliantly quirky design touches from Simple Simon – is Anchor Steam Liberty Ale and Flying Dog Old Scratch.

Handlebar covers and cricket bat grips make a playful appearance on the casks served from above a bar that is made from pieces of wood including two halves of an old door, a contrast to the colourful plastic bar stools.

From the tables, I have twice managed to hit my head on the overhanging and oversize metal lamps, but that could just be me rather than a design flaw. One similar lamp at Rosemarino should have my name engraved on it, the number of times I managed to hit my head on it during one visit.

On a visit yesterday with my brother and his girlfriend, we got stuck into Dark Side Espresso and Critical Mass, and Independence from Bristol Beer Factory, all the better served in egg cup-size one-third of a pint goblets so more beer can be consumed.

Beerd serves craft beer rather than real ale. Its very name is a cheeky subversion, or perhaps celebration, of the archetypal real ale drinker. On one of my visits here, I spotted a man matching the description of a Camra member, but rather disappointingly he proceeded to order a lager.

There is even one cider available, Bath Ales Bounders, with a choice of three white and three red wines available by the glass or bottle.

As well as serving the best beer in Bristol, Beerd also plays some of the best music, everything from Badly Drawn Boy to the White Stripes when I have been concentrating.

Of course, beer is best drunk with food. There is so much beer available at Beerd that it’s like a never-ending beer festival and I look forward to sampling as much of their produce as possible in the year to come.

Beerd, 157-159 St Michael’s Hill, Bristol. 0117 974 3567.

www.beerdbristol.com