Meluha on Park Street has already made a name for itself as serving some of the most adventurous food in Bristol, with dry ice and other assorted theatrical touches making this Indian restaurant far removed from the typical curry house of old.
With the launch of a chef’s table menu – now happening every Sunday night from 6pm until your stomach can take it no more – their bar has been raised even higher.
So it was fitting that for the inaugural chef’s table event that I attended last week, Stephen Gomes was wearing an outfit that was half chef’s whites and half Formula One driver racing suit, such were the patches it contained including most recently Cobra Curry Chef of the Year.
Some of the dishes served were no less than astonishing, served in a room with a view into the kitchen and each one explained personally by Gomes in an understated manner. Here is a chef that lets his food do the talking.
Chocolate and orange chicken tikka was presented in a Kilner jar, with cold hickory smoke emerging as it was prized open. Talking of smoke, an assistant with a fire extinguisher followed Gomes around as he set fire to another dish.
Both tikka and our chef’s versatility were showcased with the mango and Champagne granita with mango chicken tikka and a pipette with which diners had to squeeze more mango into the meat.
There was naan bread, but of the chocolate and honey variety midway through 12 courses of brilliant food (at a price of £45 per head or £65 with a wine flight), which finished with edible flowers and masala ice cream.
With Meluha in town, chicken tikka masala will never be the same again.
Meluha, 51 Park Street, Bristol, BS1 5NT. 0117 930 4693.
