The title of Bristol’s Best Burger is becoming increasingly hard-fought. And now, with the opening of Guerrilla Burger on Baldwin Street, there’s a new boy in town to compete with the likes of Warren’s Gourmet Burger Company in St Anne’s, The Burger Joint on Whiteladies Road and Atomic Burger on the Gloucester Road.
Whereas Warren’s offers eating challenges of burgers the size of small children, in Guerrilla Burger a small child could eat their ‘sliders’, or small burgers – no more than five centimetres across – in one mouthful.
Burgers here are offered as single, double or triple, from £3.15 for a single falafel burger to £11.50 for a triple Spanish, with chorizo, Manchego cheese and quince jelly.
The corrugated iron circling the bar (below) is reminiscent of the wooden bar at Beerd, and having a small single burger is also like having a third at the St Michael’s Hill pub, enabling you to taste more than one option without breaking the bank.
My classic royale and panko chicken on opening day yesterday were both very good, as were the starters of coconut sesame prawns (£4.95) and calamari rings (£3.75). But the chips served in a McDonald’s-style paper carton were insipid and tasteless.
What more than made up for this, however, was the frozen yoghurt and sour cherry ripple (£3.50) from Gelupo in Soho, wonderfully fruity and tangy, and several notches above the frozen yoghurt in Angel Berry, previously Bristol’s best “fro-yo”.
Guerrilla Burger is an intriguing proposition. Originally a pop-up at 40 Alfred Place in Kingsdown, its new permanent home is hipster Shoreditch transported to Bristol city centre, a perfect companion to BrewDog just down the road.
There are booths with leather seats and their own dimmer switches, and a drinks menu made up mostly of cocktails; yet food is served on paper plates and plastic trays, and on the canteen-style tables and chairs nearest the window, you pay on ordering.
I counted 10 staff yesterday, six front of house and four in the kitchen, in what is not a large space and in a location not blessed with recent success.
Mostly tattooed and wearing colourful Converse shoes, service was excellent. The bartender even rustled up a non-alcoholic mojito for my 22-month-old daughter to match her mum’s stronger version.
A slider in Bristol will still remain a slide, but at Guerrilla Burger there is a new meaning for the word. Bristol’s best burgers? The jury is still out. Bristol’s best sliders? Undoubtedly.
Guerrilla Burger, 48-52 Baldwin Street, Bristol, BS1 1QB. 07528 521 151.